As part of its westernisation drive, Turkey substituted the Latin alphabet for Arabic script in 1929. But in adopting the new alphabet, it made some modifications which are worth noting if you want to pronounce Turkish names more or less correctly.

If you assume that most letters sound roughly like English, the main differences are as follows: c is pronounced "j" as in jam but with a cedilla becomes "ch" as in church; g with a semi-circle over it is a soft g which is not pronounced but serves to lengthen the vowel before it; u with an umlaut is pronounced like the u in French "tu"; o with an umlaut is pronounced like dirt or French "deux"; lower case I without a dot is pronounced like the second vowel in "portable"; s with a cedilla is "sh".

A few examples drawn from this survey: Mr Cem is pronounced Mr Jem, Mr Erçel becomes Mr Erchel, and Mr Söylemez sounds like Seuylemez.

GUIDE TO ISTANBUL

* TRANSPORT: You've landed in Istanbul, Turkey's business and touristic centre, and you want to get to your hotel. Take any taxi that is yellow and has the meter switched on. A ride to the centre of town should cost about TL8m (TL1m extra in toll bridge fees is charged for any ride across the Bosphorus, which separates Istanbul's Asian and European shores). Although taxi drivers are usually honest, some try to short-change foreigners by giving them TL100,000 notes instead of TL5m, both of which are a similar beige colour.

You may never need to cross from Europe to Asia, where an increasing number of big companies are based. But if you need a swifter passage at rush hour, when the two Bosphorus bridges are usually jammed with traffic, or you enjoy boat rides, you might try taking one of the ferries or "seabuses" which criss-cross the waterway at regular intervals.

* ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD: Istanbul has a large selection of international hotels, but the Pera Palas is first choice for old-world charm. The bigger of the city's two Hilton Hotels has a large garden and good sports club, including a lovely outdoor pool in summer. The Conrad offers a good lunchtime buffet while the Swissôtel has good sushi and magnificent views. Pleasant small hotels are concentrated in the Sultanahmet area which is home to the city's main tourist attractions. Although predominantly Moslem, Turks have no problem with alcohol, which is widely available in Istanbul's many bars, nightclubs and restaurants.

* MONEY: For the best exchange rates go to döviz, or currency exchange offices, which are distinct from banks. Otherwise, there are plenty of cash machines on any main thoroughfare. Tipping is not customary for taxi drivers although a gratuity for waiters is.

* SHOPPING: The Covered Bazaar is a popular destination for tourists looking to buy souvenirs, carpets and jewellery. For a less hectic experience, you might try strolling around Çukurcuma, a pleasant neighbourhood behind central Taksim Square, lined with antique shops and coffee bars. Also enjoyable is the covered flea market of Hor Hor, which specialises in antiques and is open seven days a week. Istanbul also has several upmarket shopping malls, such as Akmerkez in Etiler, a trendy neighbourhood with lots of western-style cafes and nightclubs.

* DOWNSIDES: Apart from the heavy traffic, which would be greatly alleviated if the city had a proper metro system, Istanbul's main drawback is hustling aimed at foreigners and concentrated around tourist sights. If pestered by hawkers, try the polite rebuff of "bas{,}ka (pronounced bashka) zaman", meaning "another time".

HIGHLIGHTS OF ANKARA, THE CAPITAL: A taxi costs about TL18m to the centre from the airport. The two main international hotels are the Hilton, older but friendlier, and the Sheraton, newer but more impersonal. A popular restaurant for business lunches is Mest, while Sogan, closed at weekends, has more interesting decor and atmosphere for dinner. The downtown area of Ulus offers an ancient citadel, the worthwhile Museum of Anatolian Civilisations, as well as attractive carpet, souvenir and antique shops.